In the first article of this two part series, we established some key attributes of our vast skin microbiome — what commensal (friendly) bacteria look like, why microbial diversity is so important, and how our environment, diet, and other factors, may affect our microbiome. The bottom line: while we may not know as much about our skin microbiome as our gut microbiome, we do know that the microbiota on our skin may help us discover novel treatments and new insights into disease management.
Here, we’ll highlight what products offer microbiome support and what you can expect from products with claims like “microbiome friendly” or “probiotic skincare.”
First, learn more about the skin microbiome
When our skin is in good health, our microbiome flourishes; it coats our skin with a protective film or barrier, guards us against foreign species, helps prevent infection, and provides essential nutrients. A healthy skin microbiome contributes to skin qualities we seek: hydrated, glowing, and clear skin!
In Part One, we established that a diverse microbiome is a healthy one. If there is an imbalance or we’re lacking a variety of skin bacteria, our skin barrier can become compromised, and this may result in various forms of inflammation (e.g. acne, atopic dermatitis/eczema, rosacea, etc.). Environmental factors, diet, and other factors, including the type of personal care products we use, further impact the state of our skin ecosystem. Enter microbiome-led skincare, which often promises to support a healthy skin microbiome, and is arguably poised at the forefront of skincare innovation.
Skincare for the skin microbiome
Advancements in skin microbiome research is influencing our approach to formulating skincare and our understanding around skin health. Countless brands, manufacturers, and research labs today have leveraged new discoveries around the microbiome into their brand/product story, and into creating, manipulating or synthesizing new materials for products. For example, probiotic skincare has become ubiquitous, and new claims like “microbiome-friendly” skincare are becoming more prominent.
When talking about microbiome-led skincare, we’re often referring to products that feature one of the following or a combination of the following:
- Prebiotics — which help feed the bacteria and support growth
- Probiotics — which are common as oral supplements in live form, but in terms of skincare, they are often not alive and do not colonize the skin
- Postbiotics — these are by-products in the form of nutrients that bacteria can make
- Skin-loving, biomimetic ingredients that support the skin barrier and overall skin health; These formulations often omit certain preservatives, sulfates, and chemical exfoliants and are minimalist in overall design
From a product functionality point of view, skincare ingredients like Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate or Lactobacillus Ferment, commonly used in products with microbiome or skin barrier claims, offer skin conditioning, hydrating, and soothing properties. Any brand/product claiming to do more is largely marketing. So use caution. Not to mention, there are no regulations or requirements that govern cosmetic products and or ingredients intended to work specifically for the skin’s microbiome.
Conclusion
So while skin bacteria influences the overall condition of the skin, it’s too early to know if the claims about skin-modifying benefits are founded. Remember, we still have a long way to go in terms of understanding and applying knowledge from microbiome (and skin microbiome) research. Having said that, the way to achieve optimal health/skin health is by following our own microbiome’s example. It’s a fine balance — we have to keep the pathogens in check — and with a healthy microbiome, good health (and good skin) will be most likely to follow.
Written by Maya
Reviewed by Drs. Smith & Fardin
References:
- Santoni, Olivia. “Microbiome Claims: Should Pre-, Pro-, and Postbiotic Skin Care Be Regulated?” Cosmetic & Toiletries, 2021.
- Fardin, Shala and Janette Kerri. “Practical Applications in Acne and Rosacea.” Integrative Dermatology, 2021.