Human eyelashes are a delicate and mysterious component of the facial esthetic, and as a society, we have been fascinated by them since the beginning of time – dating all the way back to ancient Egypt where both women and men sought fluttery, beautiful lashes. Considered a sign of beauty and attractiveness, there is universal appeal in optimizing the eyes and making them a prominent feature of our visage.
Today, eyelashes are often the focus of numerous beauty treatments and innovations to enhance them. A classic swipe of mascara, a set of faux lashes, lash extensions, lash lifts, lash tints, and lash growth serums are all examples of the myriad ways in which we can beautify our eyes. And in light of Covid-19, our pursuit of dream lashes has only increased with mask-wearing. Many of us are experimenting with different eye products at home, and there is one in particular category of products that has garnered significant attention lately: lash growth serums and lash conditioners.
Lash growth serums and lash conditioners are often positioned in a similar way but they should not be mistaken for the same thing. The latter usually contains nourishing ingredients such as emollients and humectants to soften and plump the hair, which invariably results in less hair fall.
Lash growth serums, on the other hand, are typically designed to help increase length, fullness, and even darkness of lashes. They target the active growth (anagen) phase of the hair cycle, and many of these formulas may feature a combination of natural extracts, peptides, amino acids, vitamins, or prostaglandin analogs.
Prostaglandin analogs are a group of synthetic lipids that have hormone-like effects in the body, and they originally gained popularity from prescription lash growth serum Latisse. These analogs can be considered to be “active” ingredients as they have been critically evaluated and tested for efficacy. However, when looking at most OTC lash growth serums on the market, the exact mechanisms of action are less clear or unproven.
A quick look at the anatomy and physiology of lashes
Lashes are quite unique in terms of form and function. Our upper eyelashes usually occur in two to three rows, are short, thick (thicker than scalp hair), and curved in morphology, and they don’t lose pigmentation or gray with age. Lower lashes curve down so that they do not interfere with eyelid closure.[1] We generally have between 100 and 150 lashes originating from each of our upper eyelids, and roughly half in our lower lash lines.[2]
Eyelashes are designed to protect the eye from debris and irritants that can obstruct vision or cause injury. Each day, we lose anywhere between one and five eyelashes, but some of us may experience more substantial lash loss (known as madarosis) or even no hair growth at all. Dermatologists call a lack of complete hair growth hypotrichosis – which could be a symptom of underlying health problems in the eye or disease.
What is particularly unique about eyelashes is their growth cycle and the fact that they lack an arrector pili muscle. This is the same muscle that helps our hair on our bodies to stand up when we are cold; which is commonly known as goose bumps. And unlike scalp hair follicles that have a much longer hair cycle (several years), the cycle of eyelash follicles lasts anywhere from 5 to 11 months, with a 1–2 month active growth phase where rapid cell proliferation and differentiation occurs.[3]
What to look for when choosing a lash growth serum
Medical grade. Many OTC formulations do not contain a therapeutic level of an active ingredient to effect significant change in the skin. Medical grade products contain clinical levels of all active ingredients, and when it comes to efficacy and ingredient purity, they are held to the highest standards. Look out for products that are manufactured in FDA approved labs.
These are the building blocks of collagen that contain two or more amino acids. They are either synthetically made in a lab or bioengineered and derived from plants. Peptides act as little messengers, encouraging skin cells to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin.
Amino acids. These are the building blocks of peptides and proteins. When applied topically, amino acids help to maintain hydration of the skin, improve resilience and strength, and promote overall health. Amino acids work particularly well with peptides.
SMD’s favorite lash products
SMD Lash Extend
Lash Extend is a formula modeled after a clinically proven lash growth serum with an active peptide blend. If you’re looking for a non-drug, medical-grade formula to up the oomph factor on your lashes, then our Lash Extend features a synergistic combination of silk amino acids, peptides, and botanicals to promote lash growth by conditioning, strengthening, and anchoring the hairs. Silk amino acids coat and condition the lashes, peptides encourage hair bulb keratinocyte production and optimal hair anchorage, and active botanicals such as chamomile and aloe vera help repair damaged hairs.
This product also features a convenient and precise brush applicator to effectively target the skin of the upper-eyelid margin.
Latisse
Many of you are probably already aware of Latisse, or at have at least have heard of it. It’s the only FDA approved, prescription lash growth serum on the market that features Bimpatoprost (a prostaglandin analog) that has been traditionally used to treat patients with Glaucoma. Today, it is most commonly used to treat hypotrichosis by increasing growth, density, and darkness of lashes.
While the use of Latisse is generally safe and well tolerated, there are some potential side effects, albeit rare, that may include but not limited to: iris pigmentation or lid pigmentation.
Written by Maya
Reviewed by Drs. Smith & Fardin
[1] Karthikeyan, Kaliaperumal; Kumar, Annapurna. “Madarosis: A Marker of Many Maladies.” NCBI. 2012. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3358936/. Accessed 2 October, 2020.
[2] Derek, Jones. “Enhanced Eyelashes: Prescription and Over-the-counter options.” NCBI. Aug. 2010 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3036812/. Accessed 2 October, 2020.
[3] Derek, Jones. “Enhanced Eyelashes: Prescription and Over-the-counter options.” NCBI. Aug. 2010 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3036812/. Accessed 2 October, 2020.